Angelica Cheung is arguably the most powerful Vogue editor in the world. Anna Wintour may be more famous, but Cheung's Vogue - the Chinese edition - is so commercially successful it now prints 16 issues a year instead of the usual 12 in order to accommodate all its advertisers.The 47-year-old Anglophile is the daughter of a Chinese diplomat, married to an Englishman and happily spends her summer holidays in chilly Britain. She has edited the Chinese edition since its launch and in the process has turned herself into a cultural bridgehead between east and west, partly thanks to her flawless English - she studied at the Universities of Peking and Southern Australia. So with Chinese Vogue currently celebrating its 100th issue (it's six years old since you ask) by commissioning Mario Testino to shoot every fashion story in the edition, it seemed a good moment to take stock of the East-West fashion relationship.
The stereotypical Chinese consumer liked everything to be bigger, brighter, more sparkly - and that's true to an extent. But these people started to be exposed to fashion and luxury almost overnight. Tastes are maturing very fast. Nowadays China is a multi-layered market. On the top there are the really sophisticated consumers who go to the shows, buy couture and need one of a kind, limited edition pieces to really excite them. Then you have the middle class consumers who still enjoy the more popular brands and the newcomers joining in everyday from second, third and fourth tier cities. The Chinese are not blingy by nature. We're by and large humble and understated. I think that's why the whole blingy phase is going so quickly.
How long before China produces its own designers to rival European and American ones - or perhaps it already does?
From the moment Chinese Vogue launched we carried a Made In China column dedicated to showcasing Chinese designers. Uma Wang, whom we brought to Milan a few years ago via a project with Vogue Italia is now showing on schedule there. Masha Mia, the second designer we selected for the Vogue China and CFDA/American Vogueexchange programme has been showing in Paris for the past three seasons. Huishan Hang, another of our discoveries, has his presentation during London Fashion Week, attracts lots of international press and has just won the Dorchester Collection Designer award and been picked up by Barney's.
Should Western designers and fashion houses be worried?
The market for independent Chinese designers is still small here, given how large the consumer base is. For Chinese start-up labels it's hard to find experienced and dedicated staff and fabrics. It's also difficult to keep hold of skilled workers in China. A lot of designers have to go abroad to get things finished.
That's ironic, given how many Western companies feel they have no financial option other than to get their products manufactured in China.
The big challenge for new labels here is finding factories willing to work with small quantities.
I'm guessing Western photographers still have huge kudos in China, given that your 100th issue is entirely shot by Mario Testino.
It's very important to us to work with photographers who really understand the Chinese aesthetic. With Mario I had absolutely no qualms. If there is anyone who can make absolutely anybody look great, it's him. He's a great collaborator and genuinely interested in China and the Chinese.
What's the status of Chinese models in China these days?
Chinese people really do identify with Asian standards of beauty. Yes, they think a beautiful western model is stunning, but they also think that, for example, the particular eye-shadow colour or shape of dress they're modelling will only work on a western girl.
So commercially, it's a smart move to use home-grown models?
The rise of Chinese supermodels has been a huge boost to consumers. Now that the Chinese supermodels also do so many international campaigns, Chinese fashion brands are eager to use them too, because at the same time as lending an aura of international style to their brand, they remain relatable to the average consumer in China.
The Chinese actresses we see in the West always look exquisite. Don't you have an equivalent of trashy, reality celebrities?
In China, "casual" looks are not widely imitated. People expect celebrities to look like an idealized beauty. Every time celebrities appear they are polished, groomed. They look beautiful because that's what the public expects.
